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Flashforge USA

Flashforge USA

Adventurer 3 by FlashForge USA Setup and Review

hey guys back today with the printer review I’m excited to share the folks at flashforge USA were kind enough to send over their adventurer 3 model for me to test out and

share my results this printer comes at a low price of just four hundred and fifty dollars which is great for a plug-and-play machine this is definitely not a DIY printer and comes ready for you to start printing using their software in settings a couple of days after being notified flashforge USA we’re sending me one I received this package after opening it seems that the package comes with a few small tools a short instruction manual a 300 gram spool of PLA and

the printer ready to go the packaging was great and should ensure the printer is delivered without any issues after removing the tape and safety sections for packaging everything on this machine is literally ready to go the cable that connects to the hot and required a reconnection but that was all i turned the machine on and make sure everything works everything is controlled via this touchscreen and as mentioned earlier this is not a tinkerers machine meaning it’s all set up via their firmware I scroll through and

home the printer to which it does at the top of the printer rather than at the bottom I then set up the Z height via their easy-to-use calibration tool there are no bed corners to tighten or loosen meaning it just requires you to raise or lower the nozzle at 0.1 millimeter increments at a time via the touchscreen I’ve used printers long enough to where I can generally tell the proper Z height from side alone but if you want to get this right you can use a piece of paper and

slide it under the nozzle until you get a bit of resistance you then store the Z height by clicking continue I unfortunately notice that this Z height calibration resets after turning off and on the machine so keep that in mind if you turn the printer off then came my first hiccup I attempted to heat the nozzle and it seemed that nothing was happening I was afraid that something was wrong but a simple off and on of the switch on the side allowed everything to be fixed I ended up having to do this a couple of times if the touchscreen froze or something went wrong but

overall it wasn’t really an issue the filament is loaded via the side where the panel comes off and exposes the holder and extrude this extruder is built-in and not likely easy to change and requires you to use the load and unload feature on the printer to use rather than just manually feeding it yourself the unfortunate thing about this is that it’s meant for their dreamer series of 1/2 kilogram spools it will not fit a standard kilogram spool and

will require some printed parts that we’ll show in a future video on how to do feeding takes a little while but is very simple the hot end heats up extremely fast and as they advertise it reaches 200 degrees Celsius in just 50 seconds but mine actually beat that by around 10 seconds here you can also see how fast the build plate heats up I do this later on in my testing but feel it fits well here in the video to heat up it takes only 39 seconds to reach 50 degrees Celsius 2 minutes to get to 80 degrees and

in extended eight minutes and 30 seconds to reach its peak of a hundred degrees Celsius the vast majority of this time came from the last 5 to 10 degrees so you could print at 90 degrees for most of abs parts and save about 6 minutes comparing this to my CR 10 which does have a much larger build place it took over 20 minutes to get to 100 degrees making this adventurer 3 far faster this 100 degrees Celsius along with the enclosure of the printer should make it a perfect machine for printing abs which I will test out in the next video if you’re watching this video after that one’s complete

I will be sure to link to it down below before doing any test of my own I go ahead and use their pre-loaded print on the machine this is just a basic cube meant for PLA and will help to make sure everything is working properly I just click on the touchscreen build and choose the internal memory and it gets started the printer will home move down a bit and then wait until the target temperatures are hit before starting the first thing I noticed about this printer is just how quiet it is they advertise it is 45 decibel which is considered quieter than a conversation at home I can attest that this is definitely the least noisy machine

I have personally used here’s it without changing anything with only using my Road micro mic then here it is compared to my CR 10 printing it may not be extremely easy for you to notice but I honestly think you could sleep with this printer going on in the same room this print comes out far above my expectations considering I have no idea how it was sliced 0zi wobble and you could only see the internal infill due to the material being translucent

I definitely become excited to do further tests the printer bed slides right out and makes removal of the parts very easy this guy even bends a bit though I was afraid to bend too much in fear of cracking it one of the unfortunate things about this machine is that they want you to use their proprietary flash print slicer there’s nothing wrong with this slicer especially since it has pre calibrated for settings for their machines it’s just the fact that I’m far more familiar with Kira in my next video

I will show you exactly how I use Kira when slicing for this machine it just requires some basic tweaks but for this video I will only be using flash print it takes me a couple of minutes to get used to flash print but essentially allows you to do the majority of the functions you require for a successful print since you are choosing the adventure of three as the printer being used it has pre-loaded settings that seem to work great I start off with a standard bench II using their standard settings with just about 0 tweaks this printer allows you to print off of a USB or off there polar cloud I went the polar cloud route to begin with to see what it’s like which just requires you to connect the machine to your Wi-Fi and

polar a cloud account set up was really simple this polar cloud definitely leaves a lot to be desired but it’s pretty cool to have a built-in functional way to control your machine via the internet for such an inexpensive printer I ran into some hiccups where I needed to restart the machine but once it gets going it works fine this is also where I realized the printer actually has a camera

I honestly did not know that until I saw the command to turn the camera on and boom you can see remotely what’s going on and stop if required if you see something going wrong there is also a built-in light that you can easily turn on and off on the machine so you can see the print even when the lights are off in the room there aren’t a ton of controls you can’t move the access or give g-code commands but you can set temperatures start pause and cancel prints if you ever run into hiccups here you can always go the USB route that Benxi is shown on the screen now and I’m very satisfied with it there are very minor artifacts and essentially 0zi wobble the one thing I did notice is that the beginning of a print it seems that parts have a bit of difficulty initially getting stuck to the build plate even when heated properly

I believe that this means it’s really smart to slow down that first layer to around 15 millimeters per second either that or use a raft in order to ensure everything sticks properly once it gets going nothing pops off it’s just the initial section that has a bit of problem sticking next up I do some test pieces for surface quality retraction and support it ends up I didn’t have support settings turned on when I thought I did so these first couple ones can be ignored that said the underside of the sphere came out much better than I thought it would though the retraction test could be improved a bit the same is true with the surface quality test near the top all things I am positive can be remedied with some settings tweaks I think it’s one of the reasons I’m excited to try out Kyra the support settings flash print does allow for quite a few tweaks in this regard but

I’m already fond of Kuras settings and have a few already honed in I’m not a fan of tree support but if you are there is that option you just need to go into the support section and up at the top choose how you would like it to be placed for my test I used lines function at 55 degrees then one slicing I do some further tweaks including adding some solid top layers since this support interface is how I get good quality when printing with Kyra I also make sure to add a raft to see how those settings work on flash print I was very surprised just how good the raft came out the settings there were perfect it pops right off and doesn’t make the underside look bad at all the slope on this part didn’t require any support material and it came out perfectly the only issue I had was a lot of difficulty removing the support interface which means I’ll likely need to tweak that further for more complex prints then again this isn’t a review of flash print and rather a review of the printer which seems to be working perfectly up to this point you can you also use Kyra with an easy fix I’ll show in my next video

so I’m ignoring these minor slicing issues I go ahead and print this Einstein bust reduced to 50% at their high quality and Wow did this come out good ignoring the support settings that can be improved upon I’m just blown away by the quality on this machine without me needing to upgrade a thing for both of these previous prints I just print off of USB which took me a minute to realize how to get to work I had to go into the touch screen and turn the camera settings to Auto which is fine because you can still view the camera on polar cloud even when printing off USB I believe I will just keep this on auto for all future printing the final thing

I wanted to try out with this video is using a different companies half kilogram spool the a IO robotics 1/2 kilogram spool fits in just fine but the center hole is too large you could print something to remedy this but even if you don’t you can get it to work if you close the side panel quickly this einstein bus was printed with the same settings as before but with this AI o robotics material so even if you don’t want to print the extension for a full kilogram you likely can get other spools to work it’s now time to go over some of the pros and cons of this machine the pros for the adventurer 3 by flashforge USA are as follows this is a plug-and-play machine this means that you require almost no tweaking to get it to work and so long as you use their proprietary software everything will print great this may not be good for you tinker’s out there but for anyone new to the 3d printing sphere this is exactly what you want this is one of the few machines

I’ve used that printed high-quality right out of the box which goes with the previous point of being plug-and-play the enclosed printer allows for ambient air to get higher meaning you should be able to print high shrinkage materials with little to no warping I will test this out further with ABS in the next video there’s a removable build plate that makes getting prints off far easier the machine is extremely quiet when printing honestly one of the most silent machines I’ve personally used the machine can reach target temperatures extremely fast for both the build plate and hot end there’s a camera built in along with Wi-Fi meaning you can control the printer remotely without any additions the nozzle is also easily detached though

I have not played with that yet the printer has ez bed leveling without the need to tighten any corners and finally flash forages us a support team seems to be spot on getting back to me very quickly ready to answer any of my questions or concerns now for the cons since this is so closed off and plug-and-play this is not great for tinker’s it isn’t intuitive how to use your own slicing software does not allow the printer to plug into a computer for control on firmware tweaks and is extremely hard to upgrade parts

I would assume upgrading to a Titan or bond tech extruder would be very difficult the build area is small it’s only 150 millimeters by 150 millimeters by 150 millimeters the extruder is Bohdan which isn’t a negative for many of you but will make printing flexible materials difficult I haven’t tested this yet but seems to be the case with almost all Bonin setups the extruder does not have any gear ratio meaning there is less torque I’ve had a few extruder skips during my test and though they fixed themselves within a couple of seconds without me doing anything this could definitely arise in the future it requires you to go very slow on the initial layer or to use a raft to make sure everything sticks down properly

I needed a turn off and on the machine a couple of times when the touchscreen froze or had any polar cloud printing issues and finally the machine can only hold a half kilogram spool on its side you can use some kilogram spools with some printed parts it’s just the side panels will have to be left open though I mentioned a few cons this flashforge adventurer 3 by flashforge USA it’s far better than

I thought it would be for the price for 450 dollars this is one of the best priced enclosed machines with high quality prints that

I personally know about I would also suggest it to anyone looking to get into 3d printing without breaking the bank make sure to visit flashforge USA in the non-affiliated link down below and check it out for yourself stay tuned as I do further tests and upgrades to this machine as well as use it for my next giveaway and future fun prints thanks for watching guys hope to see you all soon if you’re interested in 3d printing don’t forget to check out my book 3d printing failures 2019 edition this guy has been revamped and edited to include all of the 3d printing failures I have ever experienced how to diagnose them and how to fix it check the description down below to grab yourself a copy

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