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Best Large Home 3D Printers Comparison

Best Large Home 3D Printers – MASSIVE 3D Printer Comparison – Best 3D Printer 2018

we have another huge through different their comparison I’m gonna compare all these 3d printers and and I just wanted to give you a quick introduction to which printers are gonna be in this video so here we go this is a popular one the ANA cubic I three mega a functional people Black Widow this snap maker this is not just a 3d printer but it also does laser engraving

and CNC engravings so a very interesting product the Aniki 10 the make block Delta through the printer the annotate and the tarantula once again I do have very exciting news about the annotate here we have the TiVo little monster you know not so little the TiVo tornado very nice the original CR 10 and as well as the upgraded version this year 10s

and simply because I could not fit any more 3d printers on this table I have the CR 10 5s over here absolutely mungus through the printer the any Caprica Omega is 360 dollars it’s a very refined incomplete through the printer no doubt one of the few 3d printers I’ve been getting consistent results from I’ve had it for six months

and it’s been working very reliably during that period of time which is very important it’s what I would say one of the key factors to what is a good through the printer however we are looking at a pretty mediocre build volume of 210 210

and 205 millimeters make that what you will but for me personally I’m not saying for everyone but for me personally build volume is right up there with consistent results it’s a key factor and the only reason I’m not using this printer for a lot of you this will probably be enough you have to line up your key factors

and make decisions based on what you think is important dual dual c-axis murders a Bowden setup a very nice heated bed actually and you get this filament sensor that makes movie color prints a bit easier a PLA beautiful nylon no problem ABS super nice flexible filament not so much it was the only filament I didn’t get good results from so keep that in mind but all in all it is nice so here we have the Kibo Black Widow a way more substantial DIY 3d printer in the four hundred dollar range we have a bit more to play with here we have the build volume of 350 by 250 by 260 millimeters opposite to an already assembled through the printer the Black Widow is a DIY kit meaning meaning it will arrive in a box with a bunch of parts that you will have to assemble following a manual

and some people really do like the DIY experience and I encourage it because it’s a great way to learn however this has been a highly discussed through the preneur the Black Widow only year ago was very unpredictable people reporting their their machine didn’t work obvious oversights in quality control they have now addressed most of these issues

and now it’s in a K machine you know a plus on the mechanical side of things they do frames yes you know you could drop it out of an airplane in and it wouldn’t survive ok frames good motors good the 24 volt bed heats up very quickly they added a MOSFET to it previously they have problems with the power supply that would burn that should be fixed now but I still see people posting pictures of blown out components so to turn them a good note you

and really the one thing I’m using it for so out of all these printer is only two of them are using a direct drive extruder the Black Widow was one of them the extruder is what pulls the filament down the heat block

and with a direct drive system that distance is very short on a vote and set up that distance that distance is very long causing a lot of friction and flexible filament being like boiled spaghetti it buckles


and it fails inside here so the TiVo Black Widow is it’s not just gonna be able to print flexible film and better and more reliably but double even triple the speed so so basically well really the only time I would would recommend the TiVo Black Widow is if you’re gonna print a lot of flexible filament now this is an interesting one that I didn’t want to show you because it’s not live you can pre-order it

and so many of you were asking for it you’ve probably seen it in the background on my videos it’s the snap maker it’s the $800 three-in-one multi-tool machine just an absolutely beautiful piece of engineering

and everything is very very modular you have these these two different tool heads that are interchangeable so this is the 3d printing head you change it up to a laser and a CNC so everything is over modular an intuitive

and very user friendly touch screen you have the controller in the back where you put in the power and oh yeah twelve seconds later and they give you this power supply I wrote snap maker on it just to keep it in line I really do think so many people will find this helpful of a laser

and CNC and through the printing in just one complete package but but a build volume of 120 by 120 by 120 millimeters is not gonna cut it for me and even smaller for this scene see over just 90 by 90 millimeters I mean that that’s not a big piece you can’t expect a more comprehensive review of the snap maker in the near future the net10 very similar to the CR attending in a lot of ways it is a fully assembled 3d printer just install the corner brackets a very minimal amount of time assembly required a decent sized bed of 220 by 270 by 300 millimeters

and at the price point of 270 dollars you are getting the poet and setup you are getting heated bed the electronics are in closed duels set axes motors looks good on paper but that was not the reality I actually I actually made a list of the problems I had so the first problem was the bent bed plates they were so soft I didn’t have to apply much pressure to bend them

and I mean yeah you know this is so it’s not so much a shipping problem that’s a Aspen engineering problem the bed was also hitting the frame misaligned x-axis pulley a lot of plane the X

and set axis gantry no MOSFET controller inside the electronics box which I would argue that they need with that motherboard the thermistor is not locked in you’re supposed to just place it in the heat block and if that were to fall out somehow that would eventually overheat

and impossibly catch fire so that’s not good though I don’t see that very likely but usually they are locked in hey I could go on here but but the number of problems just out of the box exceeded my expectations to what I would consider a good 3d printer not just the poor quality control

and engineering but but keep in mind because I know the pictures can be quite misleading but compared to the CR 10 you’re getting is significantly smaller build volume the entire printer itself is it’s much smaller yeah I hope you can see this but but it is a lot smaller you also don’t get the glass bed which is something I value extremely much so all of this leads me to not wanting to recommend the a 90/10 but but I can’t argue that it doesn’t print because it does

and it prints quite well so I would recommend to someone who is looking for a true DIY kit someone who wants to build their through the printer from scratch this one is a delta printer i had in my previous comparison video it’s the micro delta we work from emotion tech super nice just a pure joy to to build and assemble high-quality components very robust the manual is great

and they may even send you this adapter as a power supply so you know it’s safe for for kids they’re around $500 little pricey but the one thing I didn’t like was the build wall one hundred

and fifty by two hundred millimeters so fairly small so I want to present to you another option this is the ender of Delta through the printer for around six hundred dollars so again not the cheapest on the market but a great kit nonetheless for anyone who wants to build their 3d printer from scratch just like the micro Delta was just such a enjoyable experience to build it the manual is great it shows in very great detail how to assemble everything so great for kids you get an adapter so again great for kids however the reason I wanted to show you this one is because if you have been checking out the Delta rework this one has a significantly larger build volume of 220 in diameter

and 300 millimeters tall so quite a significantly larger build volume which is great but you are trading off a heated heated bed platform which the micro Delta has this one doesn’t have a heated bed and because of the Bowden setup you’re not going to be able to print flexible lumens very well so expect mostly pla from this machine these two are going to be your cheapest options with the annotate that 140 dollars

and the tarantula at 180 now both of these are DIY kits however not really suitable for kids because of open power supplies on both printers not great manuals but I mean you are getting a decent build volume and everything you need to start 3d printing at this price point that’s is now both of these has several crucial flaws the frames are less than optimal that probably will require some modifications from your part they lack in quality control

and are you know semi dangerous it’s not wired correctly but they do through the print and can produce some surprisingly good results which I do want to make a correction from a previous comparison video when I gave a slight edge to the tarantula I have now found some very very well fine-tune settings for the 88 which I do by the way will link all the profiles for all the printers in the description below so now I get very very nice prints on both the annotate as well as on the tarantula okay I’m gonna stand next to this little bugger the T without the little monster for $800 you’re stepping up to a 350 by 500 millimeter build volume oh I really have been loving it since day one for its ability to pray very very quickly way faster than any other than through a printer

and and also it’s compatible with almost any filament so it prints flexible filament very nicely and for that reason it’s one of my most used 3d printers so for the assembly a lot of things were already pre-installed so he didn’t take very long time to get it working I mean ridiculously strong frame borderline overkill a 24 volt heat that heats up fairly quickly to 100 degrees well tivo so you might experience some some quality control issues mine was fine

and I don’t see too many people with major problems I’m telling you it’s a solid printer thumbs up now with this I think people did a good job the Teva tornado around $400 with a 300 by 300 by 400 millimeter build volume so we are getting up there a clear following construction to the hype around the CR 10 virtually no difference between the 2

and the tornado arrives very much like the CR 10 semi assembled already which is nice the one major difference and the only thing I complain about in CR 10 review was the heated bed taking a pretty long time to reach reach to bake temperature making making it a bit more difficult to print nylon

and abs now Pivo decided to upgrade the tomato with an AC heat bed so so it has a mosfet inside the electronics box that uses the outlet power in order to heat up the bed

and it energies however reality posted a comment about this saying that they use only 12 volts because it’s a safe voltage that doesn’t hurt anyone but the disadvantage is the heating speed is slow the only downside with the tornado I found to be that you will experience salmon skin it’s an artifact on your 3d prints I’ll cover more about this later do I really need to make an introduction you already know this printer you know how fond of it I mean what haven’t we printed on this one both Rick

and Morty was printed on this one the littering Lionhead the terminator head some big prints haven’t been done on this machine I mean by for the 3d printer I’ve used the most the cree LED see our tennis 360 bucks would be 300 by 300 by 400 volume it became very popular in the summer of 2017

and i have to give credit to quality for the way they managed their popularity so well they didn’t skimp on the quality control and and i feel there have been very consistent you know the sears have just been the kind of tool that i’ve been able to put my full trust you

and that takes some time to build up comparing the tornado to the CR 10 i haven’t put the tornado through nearly the amount of hours as on this year 10 well the heat bet on the tornado is a huge plus a huge improvement over the CR 10 but to see our 10 I can recommend with confidence it’s gonna take time to put the tornado through its paces degree I like to see our 10 you have seen me use it I think it’s good I recommend it boom from the CR 10 they decided to release an upgraded version called the CR 10 s same specifications but with a couple of upgrades for 460 dollars so a hundred dollars more expensive than the original one so I’m just gonna cover those upgrades

and whether I think it’s worth upgrading or not one of the key upgrades is a film and sensor that will pulse your through the preneur whenever you run out of filament sounds great but out of all the three prints I’ve ever done I’ve never run out of filament without noticing it’s not like you’re gonna turn on your 3d printer

and walk away for 48 hours that’s not gonna happen if you see you’re about to run out of filament you change the the filament role it’s as easy as that you know the other big upgrade they did they installed a second lead screw

and a second c-axis motor which I haven’t seen any significant increase and I have printed several 400 millimeter tall objects and this entire gantry does feel more locked in but I haven’t seen any significant increase in printing quality that they perform the same the last one is they have added a power panic feature so whenever your 3d printer gets disconnected let’s say someone pulls the plug out the 3d printer will be able to remember where it was

and you will be able to resume the print after you connect the printer once again oh yeah I could see this being useful for a lot of people in a lot of situations but ironically I haven’t been forced to use it a single time but I could see it being useful for a lot of people

so that’s a great feature so if you were to ask me is it worth the upgrade I would say if you are crunching your sense to buy a 2d printer just go with the original CR 10 but none of these upgrades makes the through the printer worse so you know if money isn’t the problem you just get to see our 10 it’s the most expensive printer I have you are getting a lot of bang for your buck though with a 500 by 500 by 500 millimeter build volume in that category it’s probably one of the most inexpensive ones it’s hard it’s hard to find printers with that kind of build plate

and the CR 10 5s as this is it’s $1,100 and is basically a CR 10 on steroids I’ve only been using it for a week or two but so for my impression is that it’s just a beefed up CR 10 they have made some modifications like it’s now a 2 written system on the y-axis instead of just a 1 they have a filament sensor dual C axis the Y motor is bigger so so they have taken time to make it work something that bothers me though is only a 300 by 300 heat bed so don’t expect the entire bill plate to be heated if Bill Vol is your number one priority this is gonna be your most affordable option oh man we’re done now let’s compare the 3d printing quality against all of these by printing a small benchmark a boat let’s do it [Music] [Applause] [Music] the point of this is just to give you a quick understanding an idea of what you can expect in terms of printing quality from each printer by using the same settings like speed number a number of parameters info percentage okay I’m gonna redo that settings like speed number of parameters info percentage layer height across all the printers but obviously the extrusion multiplier

and the retraction settings has been tuned to each printer individually let’s get started with the anti cubic to snap maker the entity 10 and make block now let’s start with the anti cubic over here it’s good it’s fine and that has been my overall experience with the any cubic

I threw mega it’s been very consistent the print is not 10 out of 10 don’t take me wrong the print is awesome I love that machine for its ability to print very consistently but that is as good as I’ve been able to get it now with the snack maker that’s very interesting because this was one of the very first prints

and it did an amazing job it really did you can kind of see almost like temperature different sections which is kind of interesting I don’t know if it has to do with the leadscrew design it doesn’t use timing belts but to print turned out really really good now with the MIT 10 like I said it prints

and it didn’t do a terrible job but prints you can kind of see some inconsistencies but I think if you really took the time to tune it you could get a really good printer for a really cheap price but out of the box this is what you can expect now the make block I think did a very very good job putting down the layers they look really fused in together

and they look really really strong which is important the only thing I would complain about is the overhangs it didn’t do a very good job and that could be because the cooling fan is a little bit weak so that might be something you want to modify but overall very nice alright let’s put this back ok let’s do let’s do the Black Widow let’s do the t-bolt out the little monster

and the tornado three of the printers from tivo and what these have in common is the salmon skin artifact salmon skin is a visible pattern not so much on the black widow

and very the tornado but on the team without that it’s very pronounced and it’s called spike the motherboard well more specifically the driver that controls the murder called a stepper driver and a lot of people don’t like this they think it looks weird

and I have to agree doesn’t look all that great luckily there is an easy fix by installing something called peel smoothers it’s fairly quick it’s fairly inexpensive I will leave a link down below to a video that explains how to do it there is definitely some ripples some imperfections on the Black Widow but it did decent on the TiVo Delta I think it looks great it just it just this salmon skin is very very prescient the tornado did good very small amount of salmon skin it’s just this one line close to the roof that doesn’t look all that great oh very nice now this is a chakra the two cheapest options the annotate

and the TiVo tarantula performed remarkably both of these made on 3d printers under $200 the tarantula looks good it doesn’t it doesn’t dazzle me you don’t need sunglasses to look at it the end of the egg is just marvelous well that’s all I have to say about those now let’s bring out the boats for the Kree ality series we have the CR 10 the original one the CR 10s

and the CR 10 5s hey I have to say I’m not too happy with the CR 10 it did pretty average you can see some clear imperfections and once again we have that line close to the roof so that might have more to do with the model

and the slicing than the actual printer itself but below my expectations from what I’ve seen with the CR 10 before now what really got me going was to see our 10s this is by far the best Benji out of them all so it has either to do with the upgrades or the original CR 10 is suffering from some kind of fatigue in the bearings I don’t know it that’s more likely I feel based on the hundred

and hundred of hours extra that I’ve printed on the original CR 10 but this just looks absolutely perfect it’s yeah it’s by far the nicest one the CR 10 5s the big one that didn’t fit on the table did very nicely as well the only issue I have that I didn’t see on the CR 10 only the CR 10s which is weird because all of these are running the exact same settings what I can see is an issue called ghosting

and that should this bear with when decreasing the extrusion multiplier but I’m starting to think it has something to do with the enormous size of things considering we didn’t see it on the other two but overall a very nice print gosh

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